Troubleshooting your Stove Top Problems (Part 2)

Common Stove Top Problems: Troubleshooting by Symptom (Part 2)

One Burner Fails to Produce Heat:

Most of the time, the cause can be traced to a defective element, a loose connection or a defective switch. Try a few things to pinpoint it – and possibly fix it in the process.

  • First, wiggle the burner element slightly. Turn off the power or unplug the stove to prevent electrical shock if you must touch the interior portion of the stove to remove it. Note if the element feels abnormal or loosely connected; sometimes comparing it with another one will help you judge any differences. Try turning the burner on again to see if this fixed the problem.
  • Narrow down the possibilities by pulling the burner element free from the stove and switching it out with another element of the same size. If the replacement works, check the one that wasn’t working where it is now plugged in. If it doesn’t work, you can be sure the element is faulty. Simply purchase a new one and pop it in place to solve your problems.
  • Examine the element for warping, bubbles or any visible sign of damage. Look for signs of corrosion on the ends that plug into the burner (called terminals) as well as on the receptacle block into which it plugs. Clean, as necessary, with steel wool or a stiff-bristled brush to remove buildup that may interfere with proper operation. If you notice what looks like burned or scorched areas on the prongs, replace the terminal block that the element plugs into, as it is likely faulty. Consult a repair technician for further assistance.

My Stovetop Burners Work, But the Indicator Light Doesn’t Glow:

Every electric stove features a little indicator light that glows when the burner is in operation. If the burner is on but the light fails to glow, one of two things is the likely problem.

  • Using a multimeter, connect the probes to the final burner control switch terminal, the one labeled P, along with the L1 terminal, while the burner is on. It should register continuity. Any other result means that portion of the control switch is faulty.
  • If you obtain continuity but the light still isn’t operating, try replacing the light bulb, located in the control panel behind the light position.

My Stovetop Burner Seems to Have One Temperature Only:

If the burner works but doesn’t get hotter or cooler, the infinite switch is likely faulty. Replace as necessary. Consult a repair professional for further information.

Common Electric Oven Issues: Troubleshooting by Symptom

Your oven may not work even though the stovetop burners do. Again, the best way to narrow down the possible causes – and find a solution – is to start with the simplest and most common causes. If, at any time, you grow uncertain or need assistance, contact a service professional for specialized assistance applicable to your particular electric oven.

My Oven Doesn’t Work, but the Stovetop Does: 

  • Check the oven control knobs. Some have separate cycle and temperature knobs, others combine all functions on one knob. Either way, are they set properly? Have you recently removed the knob, perhaps to clean the oven? If the knob was pulled off, it may not be aligned properly. Try pulling the knob off again and repositioning it for a quick, easy fix.
  • Does your broiler element work? Since the broil element, at the top of the oven, is separate from the bake element at the bottom of the oven, if one works and the other doesn’t, you know the problem is either in the element or the receptacle block into which it plugs. Whenever a burner, oven or broiler fails to work, most often the fault is in the element, so start by wiggling the element to see if it is simply loose.
  • Pull the element free and inspect it for signs of damage – extremely worn areas, bubbling, cracking, signs of burning or corrosion on the terminals. Remove dirt and corrosion with a stiff-bristled brush or sandpaper. Replace faulty elements; they aren’t very expensive (less than a service call!).
  • Test your oven elements – either the bake or broil element – with a multimeter. Clip the probes to the element terminals and test for continuity. The reading should be between 15 and 30 ohms. Higher readings mean the element is faulty and needs replacement. Alternatively, take the element to a repair service and ask them to test it for you.
  • If neither broil nor bake works and previous steps fail to identify the problem, check your clock settings. On analog clocks, the setting should be manual. Auto is for timed cooking. This fix may not be relevant for everyone. Newer ERC and EOC clocks, as discussed above, typically integrate the clock with the thermostat. When the clock stops working, it affects the oven and requires replacement.
  • Does your range feature built-in fuses? Locate the fuse positions and check if the fuses for the oven are faulty. Replace with 30 amp fuses. Your owner’s manual should explain where they are located and how to access them. Contact a service technician for further information.

The Oven Doesn’t Get Hot Enough:

Perhaps the oven works – it just doesn’t work right, producing little heat. The problem is likely not the element, but another connected part.

  • First check the oven door. The gasket surrounding the door must seal in the heat to maintain temperature. If you notice rips, tears or missing portions, this may explain the problem.
  • Test the thermostat. Place an oven thermometer inside the oven and verify the temperature difference. Often, you can adjust an oven thermostat simply by turning a screw located on the thermostat’s valve stem. On newer digital display oven models, where the thermostat is part of the clock system, you can’t do this. You must replace the sensor instead. Call a service technician for professional assistance.
  • Use a multimeter to test the bake or broil receptacle, similar to testing the burner receptacle. Bad voltage can cause numerous problems. Testing L1 and L2 together should result in 240 volts. From L1 to neutral, and L2 to neutral, should register 120 volts instead.

The Oven Door Refuses to Open:

It’s possible for bent latches or similar physical damage to cause the door to latch and refuse to open again. There’s no easy fix. The oven must be disassembled to reach the latch and force it open again. Have a service technician perform the work for you.

The Oven Door Refuses to Close:

If your door refuses to close properly, the fix is likely simple. Look at the gasket surrounding the door and ensure it is clean and in good repair. Gaskets are replaceable. Also check the springs and armature, adjusting as necessary until the door closes properly. Finally, consider replacing the latch if all else fails.

The Oven Light Isn’t Working:

Replacing the light bulb is very easy. Use the same size and type each time.

The Oven Indicator Light Isn’t Working: 

The oven also has an indicator light in the control panel, similar to the burner indicator lights. Access the inside of the panel and replace the light as necessary.

The Convection Feature Fails to Work:

The convection oven will not work without a fan. After testing the selector switch, take a closer look at the fan. Make sure it isn’t plugged or clogged. Have a service technician test the part if the solution isn’t obvious.

The Self-Cleaning Feature Fails to Work:

If the knobs are operating properly, check the oven door latch to ensure it engages completely. In order to enter the cleaning cycle, the oven must “sense” the latch. If the latch has no electrical current, the oven will not detect it and will fail to clean. Test for continuity on the latch. Consult a repair professional for further information and assistance.

The Electric Range or the Food Cooked is Lopsided:

You may not even notice the range isn’t level until you bake a cake, or a casserole overflows on one side, creating a mess inside your oven. Luckily, this is generally an easy fix.

  • Is the range itself uneven? A simple way to check is to put a level inside the oven on one of the racks. Failing that, use a pan of water and eyeball the level to see if it looks even. Most ranges have leveling legs that may be adjusted to obtain level. Alternatively, use a small item such as a thin strip of wood, positioned under the stove legs.
  • Is the problem confined to the burners? If the element isn’t seated properly, the result will be a slightly lopsided pan. Simply adjust the element to correct.
  • Check the condition of the kitchen floor. If the floor is sagging or uneven, the stove will be as well. Consult a professional carpenter for a permanent solution. In the meantime, adjust the stove to obtain level.